54 Candles Expedition

Secrets of The Summit

 

By Allen Sherpa

 

Ten men – most from the White Mountains of Arizona – will launch an assault on the summit of Mount Hood, Oregon’s highest mountain, in the early morning hours of Friday the 13th of April, 2001.  Allen Sherpa was invited to participate, but declined.  With this letter, he’s staying in close contact with the climbing party.

 

The surprises never seem to end.  I’ve listened to a story from one of your climbing partners about his climb of the third highest mountain in North America, Pico de Orizaba.  It seems Orizaba is nearly 19,000 feet high and despite the fact that it’s located in central Mexico, it apparently offers all the joys of high altitude climbing.  Things like wind chill temperatures of minus fifteen degrees and the potential to fall five thousand feet down one of its glaciers.  In fact, I was stunned to learn that already this climbing season, twelve climbers have been killed on this mountain – more than have ever been killed in any one year on Mount McKinley.

 

Despite the horror stories he told me, I was intrigued by something I really hadn’t given much thought to in the past.  What happens when (if) climbers reach the summit of some great mountain?

 

It struck me a being similar to questions like:  “What are the manager and pitcher really talking about on the mound in the ninth inning?”  “Hey, Lefty.  Did you see the one sitting up there in row 5 behind first base?  I wonder if she’s married.”  Or “What’s really going on in the huddle in the football game?”  “No, Bubba!  Rock breaks scissors.”

 

Nonetheless, I’d never really given much thought to what happens on a summit at 19,000 feet.  I just assumed they smiled at the camera, signed autographs and yelled, “I’m going to Disneyland.”

 

After talking with your compatriot, I was amazed.  It seems he climbed Orizaba with two professional climbers and a dentist from Illinois.  (Think about the irony of suffering through ten days in an alpine environment and doing it with a climbing mate that specializes in root canals – pretty well tells the story doesn’t it?)  The dentist has tried to reach the summit of this mountain for three straight years.  This attempt was his first success.

 

Now as your buddy was telling me this story, I’m starting to question a guy that’s this dedicated to not only administering punishment, but receiving it too.  I then learn that the dentist’s “buddies” back in Illinois have also be tormenting him about not having the good sense to give up on this seemingly unconquerable mountain.  They teased him for three years about being too old or too out-of-shape or not tough enough.  Whatever buttons they thought they could press, they were pounding.  Well, the tooth carpenter desperately wanted the last word.

 

I learned that after ten days on the mountain, these guys finally get to the summit alive, dehydrated, exhausted, and freezing cold.  They’re happy, but tired.  They’ve got thousands of feet of glacial ice between them and their high camp and they’ve got to get down.

 

They spend maybe fifteen minutes on the summit, take a few pictures, rest for a couple of minutes and then your friend hears the dentist say to one of the guides, “Here take my picture” as he hands the camera to the guide.  Your friend wheels around to discover (and this is no joke) that while standing at the top of the Jamapa Glacier in icy, 30 mile per hour winds, this most respectable dentist has dropped trow and was having his picture taken in an age-old, but less than “formal” pose.  I’ll let your imagination be your guide, but let’s just say that despite the fact they were standing on the edge of a crater, it was not the only lunar feature on the summit at that moment.

 

After nearly three years of taunting by his friends, the dentist wanted a bit of memorabilia to give them something that would make a “statement”.  Who would have guessed?  It really makes me wonder what else goes on when climbers reach high summits.  Well, I guess that’s another story.